Important application facts to know before using FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat

• Be sure to bring Glaze Coat up to room temperature prior to using. Bubbles are more likely to occur when product and/or room is cold (under 70°F).
   
• Wear lightweight safety gloves and protective clothing.
   
• Follow measuring and mixing instructions carefully. Product will not cure properly and will be soft or sticky if directions are not followed precisely.
   
• Most applications require only one coat for a deep, beautiful finish. However, multiple coats can be applied for obtaining a deeper finish. Wipe surface with alcohol or acetone between coats.
   
• To coat over polyurethane or acrylic finishes, lightly sand the surface and wipe with acetone or alcohol before using Glaze Coat.
   
• Glaze Coat is recommended for INDOOR use only.
   
• If the surface has been treated with any solvent-based liquids such as varnish or stain, test a separate area first to ensure compatibility with Glaze Coat.
   
• For beginners, it is recommended that you become familiar with Glaze Coat by doing a small project first.
   
• Keep dust away for approximately eight hours after coating. This can be accomplished by having a dust cover ready to use after pour to prevent debris from falling on project.

• Three or more unwaxed paper or plastic cups or buckets with clearly marked volume measurements and clean, smooth walls and bottom
• Straight edge stir sticks or paint paddles
• Plastic spreader or squeegee
• Disposable brush for coating edges
• Flat, clean dust cover
• Waxed paper, newspaper, or plastic drop cloth
• Latex, vinyl, or chemical-resistant neoprene gloves
• Protective clothing recommended (in case of incidental drips)
• Masking tape
• Carpenter's level

*Eye protection strongly recommended

Surface must be level, dry and free from oil, dust and wax. To catch drips, cover surrounding area with waxed paper, newspaper or drop cloth. Allow drips to flow freely off the sides by elevating area to be coated.

Seal Coats:

For porous surfaces, a thin sealer coat is recommended. Certain woods with open grains such as oak and walnut will allow air to escape causing bubbles. Follow these steps for porous fabrics or papers as well. These applications require a thin coat of Glaze Coat prior to the full flood coating. Mix about ¼ the amount normally used for a full flood coat and spread it thinly over entire surface. This will seal air passages. Allow to cure approximately 4-5 hours at 70°F.

Drips:

Before pouring, protect the sides and edges of the surface area of item being coated with several layers of masking tape. After curing, remove the tape and any drips along with it. Otherwise, drips may be scraped with a putty knife about 30-40 minutes after pouring, or they may be sanded after completely curing.

Measure: Step 1.

Pour equal parts each of resin and hardener into separate clean, unwaxed disposable paper or plastic cups or tubs. Mix MUST be a one-to-one ratio (by volume), meaning equal parts resin and hardener. If possible, use a calibrated container.

Mix: Step 2.

Pour the carefully measured Resin (Side A) into the container with measured Hardener (Side B) and thoroughly mix for two minutes. Mix with a stir stick using vigorous, steady revolutions while trying to minimize excess air bubbles into the mixture. Some air bubbles occur naturally and can be removed after the pour. It is very important to scrape all sides and the bottom of the container with your stirring stick as you mix.

Mix: Step 3.

Pour the Resin and Hardener mix into a clean mixing container and thoroughly mix for an additional two minutes.

• Do not use a power-driven mixing device under any circumstances, to avoid excessive bubbling.
• To avoid an improperly blended product, do not mix with a shaking motion.
• Mix in small batches. Inexperienced users should not mix more than one quart batches. Experienced users should not mix in more than one gallon batches at a time.
• The mixture of resin and hardener produces heat. The larger the batch, the more heat is generated in a relatively short time. This severely restricts your work time.
• Test small areas before use.

If you have any questions regarding application, please call 800-767-4667 Monday through Friday 7:30 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. (CST).

Pour Glaze Coat IMMEDIATELY onto the center of the surface to be covered. Do not allow it to "sit" as with some other epoxies. You only have about 20-25 minutes working time before product begins to harden.

Note: If temperature is above 70°F, working time decreases. Spread the mixture over the area with a plastic spreader, plastic squeegee, or brush. If coating a large surface such as tables, bar tops, etc., a notched squeegee or trowel works well (see Large Area Applications).

Pour mixture onto surface and spread evenly using a combing action in one direction over entire surface. Do not persist in re-spreading the mixture as it sets up, otherwise it will not self-level during the curing action.

Do not pour more than 1/8" thick in an application. Mix only as much as you can pour and spread at one time.

At initial pour, air bubbles created during the mixing process will usually rise to the surface by themselves and disappear. However, because Glaze Coat is very thick, it is usually necessary to help this process along immediately after pouring. Surface bubbles MUST be removed when surface is still wet, not once surface begins the curing process or else bubbles will turn into dimples once fully cured. Blow gently on the surface to force bubbles up and away. For larger areas, use a small, handheld propane torch. Keep flame 6 to 8 inches above surface. Move torch over freshly poured Glaze Coat several times until surface is bubble free. Be sure to use a waving action so the surface is only slightly warmed, allowing remaining air bubbles to disappear.

Do not hold flame in one area.

To achieve best results, apply at temperatures between 70°F and 80°F. Both Glaze Coat and the item to be coated should be approximately the same temperature.

NOTE: These curing times are to be used as guidelines only. Warmer temperatures will yield faster cure times.

• It is recommended to have a helper to speed up the mixing and application process for large areas.
• If the surface has previously been used, waxes or acids from citrus could be present, it is recommended to strip the finish to bare wood. After Glaze Coat has been applied, these foreign substances can migrate to the surface. This would cause the bond to break down and rippling to occur.
• Large surface area applications require mixing in large batches and should only be applied by a professional who has more in-depth knowledge and prior experience. Don't mix more than one gallon at a time.
• As stated before, surface preparation is important. Please read Surface Preparation prior to beginning your project. After the sealer coat has been applied and has had at least 4-5 hours to set up, you can apply subsequent layers of Glaze Coat. The major difference between small and large applications is knowing how much to cover in one pouring. Determine how much you are going to mix at one time and how large an area it will cover. Remember; one quart covers about 9 square feet, 1/16" thick. Unless highly experienced with Glaze Coat, do not attempt to mix more than one gallon at a time. Mix, pour and spread. Immediately start a new batch. Pour the next section, allowing the sections to flow into each other. Do not put layers on top of each other while they are still wet. This will produce uneven curing of the layers and cause ripples or "alligatoring" on the surface.
• Reference sections above regarding surface bubbles, curing, and cleanup.

• Cleaning:
  Use acetone to clean up any unwanted wet liquid resin on project and tools. After FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat has cured, epoxy stripper, sanding or scraping are the only ways it can be removed. (Caution: Both side A and B are skin irritants and should be handled carefully. Always use plenty of soap and water to cleanse skin.)
• Heat resistance:
  Heat resistance is approximately 120°F once fully cured. Coaster or hot pads MUST be used when placing hot objects on Glaze Coated surfaces. Hot objects may leave impressions on a FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat surface. The Glaze Coat is tough, yet flexible to avoid shattering on impact. Impressions usually disappear in a few hours at normal 72°-75°F room temperatures. The warmer the environment, the quicker impressions appear and disappear.
• Maintenance:
  Once FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat is fully cured, any acceptable furniture wax or polish may be applied to restore fresh, new luster and help hide minor scratches. If surface is marred with deep scratches, cigarette burns, etc.; lightly sand entire surface, wipe clean with dry cloth, and recoat with spreader. Glaze Coat should not be used on hot surfaces such as ashtrays or cookware.
• Surface Care:
  Once Glaze Coat is thoroughly cured, any wax or polish may be applied to restore fresh, new luster and help hide minor blemishes. Test small area. If surface is marred (deep scratches, cigarette burns, etc.), lightly sand entire surface ensuring all discoloration is removed. Wipe clean with a dry cloth or cloth with a small amount of alcohol or acetone. Do not use a tack cloth, as it will leave a film. After surface is ready, re-coat with Glaze Coat. Glaze Coat is recommended for interior use only and should not be used on hot surfaces such as ash trays or cookware. Do not use bleach to clean surface.
• Heat Resistance:
  A surface temperature of 120°F can be applied without any problems. Otherwise, distortion may occur. Always use a coaster or hot pad on surfaces with Glaze Coat. Never use Glaze Coat to line ashtrays or cookware.
• Glaze Coat is pliable.
  It may dent if something is left on it for an extended period. Once the item is removed, the dent will gradually disappear.
• Product Storage:
  Glaze Coat should not be allowed to freeze. Be sure to bring Glaze Coat up to room temperature prior to using. Shelf life is about one year.

• Embedding Items:
  Pictures, fabric, coins, shells... almost anything can be encased in Glaze Coat. You can either attach the item with a good grade white glue, making certain the entire surface is covered to ensure it will not try to float. You can also embed on the initial sealer coat. While the surface is still tacky, position the item and push it into place, making sure it is not going to move. After it has cured, a second coat can be applied to smooth the entire surface. Another method for photographs is to first laminate the photograph before attaching to surface.

Please Note: When embedding items that are important to you, make a copy and use that. Very old pictures or newspaper articles can be damaged. Not recommended for applications on cardboard.

• Creating a Satin Finish:
  To remove some of the gloss from your surface area after the Glaze Coat has completely cured, lightly sand the surface with 0000 steel wool or #600 sandpaper. Clean the surface and then apply a mixture of oil (linseed, crude, or polishing) and a carnauba-based wax. Allow to dry, rub clean, and then buff again with a carnauba-based wax.

To request a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) please send an email to msds@eclecticproducts.com.